destination: port townsend
Looking for the real Port Townsend?
Here are a few hints
Words by Leslie Kelly
Point Hudson Marina, site of the annual Wooden Boat Festival (Photo: iStock/Iriana Shiyan)
Most people know Port Townsend as a quaint Victorian town filled with charm and history. But there's more to this seaside village, home to poets, artists, hippies, eccentrics, boat builders and mill workers—making for plenty to discover on a day trip.
9 a.m.: Fort Worden State Park is a great place to start exploring PT. The park’s abandoned artillery base served as a strategic lookout point for the Army during World War I. Today it’s a big kid’s playground of secret tunnels, gun emplacements, empty bunkers and “haunted” barracks. If you’re brave, take the strange ladders and stairways to nowhere, or prowl the dark concrete tunnels leading to pitch black rooms that’ll raise the hair on your neck.
From Point Wilson Lighthouse, one of 19 historic lighthouses on Puget Sound, stroll along the sandy beach to the Marine Science Center. This beloved little museum makes a great stop on a rainy day, or any time with the kids. In addition to touch tanks and aquariums, there’s a hydrophone for listening to offshore whales.
Noon: Working up an appetite? Head over to the maritime district on the west end of town, where boats of every stripe are built and repaired. Grab a bite at Key City Tacos To Go on 10th St., which is easy to spot by the line of devoted customers.
Once refueled, explore the area and chat up the boat builders. They’re happy to tell you stories from the high seas. There’s also the Northwest Maritime Center, near Point Hudson Marina, where students learn to preserve the craft of boat building.
If you know your state history, then you know that Port Townsend was proposed to be the state capital and the terminus of the transcontinental railroad in the late 1800s. Buying into that vision, businessman George Starrett constructed a mansion for his bride that combines Gothic, Queen Anne and Stick Victorian architecture.
Today the Starrett House, located atop the bluff overlooking the downtown waterfront, welcomes overnight guests and visitors, who marvel at a mural on the tower dome’s painted ceiling. The house has a “widow’s walk” and accommodations for a horse carriage, but its most eccentric feature is the magnificent spiral staircase—a two-tiered, free-floating design—thought to be the last of its kind in the country.
From there, head downtown for a peek at historic City Hall, a distinctive building made of sandstone and red brick with an interior that shines with wood paneling. For some mid-afternoon calories, Elevated Ice Cream partners with area farmers and uses only local, natural ingredients. Dogs-A-Foot, open March to September, serves everything imaginable from “The Chicago Dog” to the “Not-So-Plain-Jane.”
Photos: Jen Lee Light
3 p.m.: Once you’ve had your fill of sights and snacks, leave time for shopping. PT is loaded with unique boutiques. Among them is the Port Townsend Antique Mall, 15,000 square feet of collectibles and precious finds offered by 40 local antique dealers.
Back toward the taco joint, step into Cherry Blossom, a home décor store, filled with all things new and old. Find a delightful white vintage bird cage and match it with some bright colored throw pillows.
From there, check out the Port Townsend Food Co-op, a full-service organic food market that’s served the community since 1972. Pick up fresh produce from Jefferson County farms and locally made bread, honey, kombucha or handmade soap.
5 p.m.: End the day with happy hour at Pourhouse (ages 21+) with its plentiful selection of local craft brews and wines. (For all ages, try nearby Propolis Brewing.) A big draw at Pourhouse is the laid back, beachside patio. Locals call it the “Impound Lot,” and there’s a ping pong table for those who want to test their skills. Or put up your feet and raise your glass to a successful day of exploration.
Photos: courtesy of Pourhouse
Need more reasons to visit?
The Rhododendron Festival
May 18-22
Includes a grand parade,
pet parade and downtown
carnival in honor of this
colorful native flower.
Brass Screw Confederacy
and Steampunk Hootenanny
June 17-19
Brings together steampunks
and Neo-Victorians to celebrate
humanity’s progress toward a
more convivial world.
Wooden Boat Festival
September 9-11
The largest of its kind in
North America. Kids and
adults can board boats,
experience maritime culture
and swap stories with fellow
aficionados.
Port Townsend Film Festival
September 22-25
Screens more than 100
films in eight venues, including
free outdoor movies under
the stars.
Port Townsend Bay Kinetic
Sculpture Race
October 1-2
The rules are simple.
Racers must construct a
human-powered artistically
enhanced vehicle that can go
through sand, a bog and can
float on water.